Tokamachi Akashi ChijimiTokamachi Akashi Crepe
Around the end of the 19th century, we took sample of cloth for summer of Nishijin of Kyoto home with us, and originally we applied to technique of Woven textiles called Tokamachi transparent silk cloth (we wait the tenth plow) which there was, and trial manufacture study of new product was performed.
Since this time, technology research of strong twist (we do not sleep today) and formulation of weft was pushed forward eagerly and improved twist transparent silk cloth (plow) which had been already woven in Tokamachi and succeeded in trial manufacture of Chinatown Area-style (jifuu) "transparent silk cloth crepe" using strong thread plying to weft and it was named "Akashi shrinkage" from Meiji middle part and was sent out in market.
Towards the end of the 19th century a sample roll of summer-weight kimono cloth was brought back to Tokamachi from Nishijin in Kyoto. Work then began on adapting an existing local weave called Tokamachi sukiya with a view to producing something new. A great deal of effort was then put into developing and improving the ways of tightly twisting up weft threads, resulting in improvements to another existing cloth, yorisukiya.
Subsequently, attempts at using a tightly twisted weft thread were successful in creating sukiya chirimen, and then the cloth called Akashi Chijimi was put on the market during the early 1890s.
Until the beginning of World War II, these cool crepes dominated the light-weight summer kimono cloth market. However, after the war, production gradually went into a decline. The weaving techniques, however, have become part of the continuing tradition of the cloths from Tokamachi and its followers still give these crepes their unfailing support.
|Industrial art object name
||Tokamachi Akashi Chijimi
||Tenth town proof shrinkage
|Classification of industrial art object
|Main production area
||Niigata / Tokamachi-shi
|The designation date
||November 1, 1982
■local production associations
Tokamachi Woven textiles industry cooperative association
6-1-71-26, Honcho, Tookamachi-shi, Niigata
Cross 10 the fourth floor
■Associated exhibit space, facility
Until prewar days, we were predominant in generation as representative of elegant summer kimono with unique refreshing feel. Although we gradually decreased, production technology is inherited as tradition peculiar to Tokamachi, and production still receives deep-rooted support after the war.
Prior to World War II, Tokamachi Akashi Chijimi were the fashion sensation of Japan’s summer kimonos thanks to the unique refreshing touch of their fabric. Due to austerity after the war, production of the Akashi Chijimi nearly stopped, and the production method became a unique, traditional technique of Tokamachi. Despite the reduced production, even today Tokamachi Akashi Chijimi maintain strong popular roots.
How to make
Expression method of design is the same as Tokamachi Gasuri. Method of twisting (and we do not sleep) includes basic difference and at first we wind up weft of Akashi shrinkage between 1 meter as lower twist (than we did) in kase of single twist of around 300 times of twist tta right twists, left twist and fix. And, as raw silk, we let 30-40% of vegetable compounding paste of the weight of thread which became kase soak in spite of being seared evenly by hand with flexible dyeing as predetermined color. It is around 3,000-3,500 time of twist riokakemasu between 1 meter with eight orders thread plying machine (butterfly does not sleep spread) in this more.
The fabric pattern of Toukamachi Akashi Chijimi is produced in exactly the same method as Toukamachi Ikat fabrics. The primary difference of Akashi Chijimi can be found it the twisting methods for its threads. First the threads are right twisted and then left twisted at 300 turns per meter, and then gathered into bundles. The bundles of raw threads are then gently dyed, while a vegetable starch of 30% to 40% of the total thread volume is rubbed in by hand to ensure even dyeing of all the threads. A traditional Haccho nenshiki silk thread plying machine is then used to twist the threads at 3,000 to 3,500 twists per meter.
Voice from production center
Cloth with splashed pattern and shrinkage with wrinkle change wrinkle by dirts, and stain is apt to get wrinkled. In season to sweat, please do invention such as attaching sweat absorbing gauze to underwear.