Shinshu TsumugiShinshu Pongee
Beginning of Shinshu Tsumugi dates back to the Nara era to woven "ashiginu".
Because each feudal clan of Shinshu recommended competitively early in the Edo era, sericulture became popular, and whole Shinshu prospered as Woven textiles production center of pongee, and a large quantity of pongee was sent to Kyoto every year.
However, production of silk pongee things burnt down afterwards and was slightly continued in the name of technical preservation until middle part of Showa. Because prefecture and the municipalities laid emphasis on revival of silk pongee thing after the war, production became active in whole throughout the prefecture, and fame of Shinshu Tsumugi gradually increased as high-quality cloth, too.
The origins of Shinshu Tsumugi go back to a silk cloth called ashiginu that was woven in the Nara period (710-794). Because of the rivalry and encouragement that the clans in the province of Shinshu were given, sericulture was very popular and the production of pongee throughout the province flourished, and every year large quantities of cloth were dispatched to Kyoto.
The production of this cloth then fell into gradual decline by the 1920s, only enough was being made to keep the skills associated with this cloths alive. After World War II, great efforts were made to revive the fortunes of this cloth not only by the prefectural authorities but by local authorities and communities, and production once again flourished throughout the region.
The making of cloth for top quality kimono followed and served to raise people's awareness of this fine cloth. Most of the cloth produced in various colors and patters is for kimono or obi. One extremely special cloth is woven from a silk obtained exclusively from wild silk worms.
|Industrial art object name
|Classification of industrial art object
||Kimono place, obi, haori
|Main production area
||Nagano / Nagano-shi, Matsumoto-shi, Ueda-shi, Okaya-shi, Iida-shi, Komagane-shi others
|The designation date
||February 17, 1975
■local production associations
Nagano Woven textiles industrial guild
2-29, Higashimachi, Komagane-shi, Nagano
Kubota texture dyer business
■Associated exhibit space, facility
As for the main product, things of various colored patterns are produced with two of "cloth" and "obi material" for kimono. Particularly, pongee of wild silk which we made with 100% Japanese oakworm moth is special product only for here.
The primary Shinshu tsumugi products are fabrics for kimonos and obi, with a wide variety of colors and patterns. Wild oak silk kimonos, which are 100% produced from the cocoons of Japanese wild oak silk moths gathered in the mountains, can only be found in Shinshu.
How to make
Shinshu Tsumugi is yarn-dyed flat Woven textiles. Thread to use for the warp does with one of raw silk or hand yarn (tetsumugiito) of dupion silk, silk floss which we have begun to pull in from cocoon which tussah, pupa two enter and it is dupion silk to weft or uses hand arm throw shuttle (hi) for implantation of weft using hand yarn of silk floss. In addition, dyeing of cloth with splashed pattern thread is shukatsu (kuku) riniyorimasu.
Shinshu tsumugi is a plain woven textile made of pre-dyed threads. The warp threads are made from either raw silk, wild oak silk, dupion silk taken from cocoons containing two pupa, or thread spun from silk floss. The weft threads are made from either dupion silk or silk floss, and are woven into the warp threads using a hand thrown shuttle. Ikat patterns are dyed by tying the dye resistant onto the threads by hand.
Voice from production center
There is little amount of production, but we eat sawtooth oak (sawtooth oak) and leaf of Japanese oak (Japanese oak) in the outdoors, and sky silkworm to prepare green cocoon into is thing only for Nagano. It may be said that deep luster to be said to be diamond of silk fabrics and lightness and robustness are right bloom of Shinshu Tsumugi.