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TRADITIONAL CRAFTS

Omi JofuOmi Ramie

By rich water of Echigawa and achievement of environment and merchant from Omi such as high humidity, hemp cloth developed from the Kamakura era in this district.
In the Edo era, it developed by promotion of Hikone feudal clan which influenced around Hikone-shi of Lake Biwa east bank more, and it was stable local industry. Technique of dyeing greatly progressed from that time, and refined splashed pattern peculiar to Omi Jofu was born.

Fostered by the well-known entrepreneurial spirit of Omi tradesmen, the hot local climate and a plentiful supply of water from the Aichi River, production of woven ramie cloth developed in this area from the Kamakura period (1185-1333).
The craft flourished during the Edo period (1600-1868) with encouragement from the Hikone clan, which ruled the area around Hikone on the southern shores of Lake Biwa, and it became a well established local industry as a result. From that time on, great improvements were made in dyeing techniques giving rise to the superb ikat patterns characteristic of Omi Jofu.

The ikat is either in the weft alone or in both the warp and weft. Weft threads are mainly bound before being dyed using a stencil for the weft ikat cloths. In the case of the warp and weft ikats, both sets of threads are dyed by applying the dyestuff to the bound threads. The positions of the warp and weft threads are then adjusted as the cloth is woven to produce what is one of the craft's top cloths. Ramie is a very comfortable cloth to wear as it is cool and absorbs moisture. These days, cloth is usually made for traditional garments but is also used for coats.

  • Notification

    skills and techniques

    1
    When you are flat live, assume raw silk fabrics woven by the next technique or technique.

     
    (1)
    Assume warp nihacho hemp thread plain weave using hemp yarn of "the hand sea" to weft.

     
    (2)
    Soak thread to use for weft into water.

     
    (3)
    Use "sitting loom" for weaving.

    2
    When it is to cloth with splashed pattern texture, do with cloth with splashed pattern Woven textiles woven by the next technique or technique.

     
    (1)
    Assume yarn-dyed plain weave.

     
    (2)
    Use cloth with splashed pattern thread for weft or the warp and weft.

     
    (3)
    Aligning pattern arrangement and ear by manual labor, and grazing cloth with splashed pattern of cloth with splashed pattern thread and ear mark, and beginning to weave design.

     
    (4)
    Staining of cloth with splashed pattern thread using "feather ruler" thing by "not doing that "do not do or is paper pattern" that is kushio."

     
    (5)
    When make getting out shibo, thing due to "hand fir tree."

    Raw materials

    Assume thread to use cho hemp thread or hemp yarn of "the hand sea".

     

  • Work scenery

    Process 1: Design

    We design cloth. As we make paper pattern to distinguishing, paper pattern becomes necessary only for the number of colors. In addition, you must think about placement of pattern so that the joint of paper pattern and paper pattern does not appear.

    Process 2: Dyeing

    We do work called wing roll winding weft around metal lath. We put paper pattern in it and leave dye in piece seawifes. After having done thread steaming with steamer for approximately ten minutes, we wash with water and dry. We dye only weft, and pattern of kasuri woofs making pattern of cloth with splashed pattern is common, but there are both the warp and combination cloth with splashed pattern to dye. In addition, we may do how to dye tie-dyeing, comb sealing dyeing.

    Process 3: Cloth with splashed pattern reason

    We divide thing which we surrounded at the time of feather winding in a mass into by one and recoil and do in state of skeane (lend). We recoil it to spool and recoil to Kosuge more. In this, weft is completion.

    Process 4: Warp

    We regulate number and the length of the warp necessary to weave. Reed is consecutive (osadooshi) and opens in texture width through the warp to reed. so is like that and makes shuttle (hi) way through weft through the warp next.

    Process 5: Handwoven

    We weave with extreme caution so that splashed pattern does not slip off. Kinds of tall handloom increased recently as wide cloth including yard goods performed handweaving.

     

  • Close-up

    Nature of Lake Biwa and traditional art, Omi Jofu

    Omi Jofu which was endowed with the best natural environments for beautiful water of Echigawa where underflow water of Mts. Suzuka flowed into and hemp cloth called basin of high temperature and humidity, and has been inherited from old days of 700 years. By achievement of merchant from Omi, many lovers still open in the whole country.

     

    Person of last tradition

    Omi Jofu that Shinnosuke Onishi who was Master of Traditional Crafts was full of vitality not to let you feel the age. Although it is small, size of presence of Onishi may be size of soul of craftsman who spent most of the life to superior grass cloth. We brightened eyes shiningly without running out of smile and, from Onishi who talked about superior grass cloth, were able to take in hot passion. However, reality is the severe situation saying it is saying it "is only two including me that we did superior grass cloth in 15-6 houses in old days, but yard goods are mechanized now, and is doing handwoven textiles". Expectation to send to Onishi as person of last tradition is limitlessly big.

    Shinnosuke Onishi. Master of Traditional Crafts expert very much that the life was walked with Omi Jofu

    Feelings as craftsman

    Onishi who saw Woven textiles of product has begun to gradually become interested in Woven textiles since we worked for bedclothing shop. It is said that he/she recommended whether the master of bedclothing shop which saw such Onishi is what saw through talent "how about when we weave Omi Jofu?". We begin to learn at industrial examination room of Notogawa and are independent at the age of 37 years old. We began Omi Jofu. We regretted interval to lie and wrestled that linen fiber was hard to fix dye and gave chaste refinement and cool feeling. Still we have needed time of five years before it was completed as product. Kimono of cloth with splashed pattern finishes weaving yarn-dyed thread and, including superior grass cloth, makes design, but we cannot readily understand even if we ask about explanation of production trip and are complexed. Simple question sprang out. It is piece-dyed, and why are you wrong? If "we reverse if it becomes old and make over as cloth with splashed pattern has neither table nor the back, we leave and do like (new article) and can wear. It is wisdom of old person"

    Onishi who weaves superior grass cloth

    Compensation of time and labor

    It well takes one month to finish weaving kimono one sputum. Let alone "sense of accomplishment when it was completed," we say that it is "smile when we had visitor please" when we are glad above all. It lets you raise will to own work that Onishi made exhibition in department stores of Tokyo can talk with visitor directly. In addition, it is said that there are many having evaluation of work in letters and people who actually visit to Oomi. You said, "do not forget trouble" with a laugh bashfully. And the smile glistened as craftsman as professional.

    New idea using Omi Jofu

    To thing which Onishi deals with, there is "thing got close to to young person" without staying only to kimono. We catch to modern people liking sum and tapestry, the making of individual room including table center. In addition, ties do cool air, and it is refined, and there is texture for mind. As there are not the right side and the wrong side even if it cannot appear, seeing from where, it is beautiful. When make screen by weaving width widely, and do to yard goods recently;, as for the superior grass cloth of Onishi, various; is a success. "Please this shop is soreyattaradonaishitaraeekana if they see. Youth kept, and besides smile of to Onishi was full of youth and confidence every day when we thought.

    New item of Onishi. Exclusive plane is necessary to weave width widely

    Gleanings

    Village Kongo garden of hand cage

    In large garden of 5,000 tsubos, there are museum, Kongo hermitage, dyeing studio, silkworm raising room, garden, Soen. It is facility which can know characteristic and beauty of Omi Jofu and Hata-so pongee through document and demonstration widely. We can observe goods dyed deep blue of weaving thread using indigo plant grass cultivated in garden, and course where visitor can actually experience how to weave indigo dyeing and Hata-so pongee is prepared for. Not only current production process but also tools such as remaining in office planes used by production such as Omi Jofu in old days in Woven textiles hall are displayed. In addition, life articles daily used by people are displayed in Kongo hermitage.

     

Summary

Industrial art object name Omi Jofu
Phonetic symbol omijofu
Classification of industrial art object Woven textiles
Main product Kimono place, obi, womenswear
Main production area Shiga / Higashi-Omi-shi, Aisho-cho, Aichi-gun, Taga-cho, Inukami-gun
The designation date March 30, 1977

Contact information

■local production associations

Shiga hemp cloth industry cooperative association
〒529-1331
13-7, Echigawa, Aisho-cho, Aichi-gun, Shiga
Omi Jofu Kyoto Museum of Traditional Industry
TEL: 0749-42-3246
FAX: 0749-42-6488

http://www.asamama.com/asakumi.html

■We visit production center from foreign countries
Image
Omi Jofu - production center visit article

■Associated exhibit space, facility

Characteristic

Omi Jofu has "weft cloth with splashed pattern" and "process combination cloth with splashed pattern". Weft cloth with splashed pattern performs "paper pattern textile printing" (katagaminassen) with weft as wing roll mainly. In addition, process combination cloth with splashed pattern does "kushionatsusen" (kushioshinassen) to both threads, and it is top quality goods as we weave cloth with splashed pattern of the warp and weft in spite of being laying upon. As hemp absorbs moisture well, it is comfort that is refreshing coolly when we wear.

Omi-jofu fabrics can be divided into “yokoito-gasuri” and “tateyoko heiyo-gasuri.” In yokoito-gasuri, the cross thread is feather-winded and “paper stencil-printed (katagami nassen)." Intateyoko heiyo-gasuri "comb pressing (kushi oshi nassen)” is performed on both yarns and garments are woven while aligning warp and weft which allows to produce premium quality items. Hemp, thanks to its moisture-absorbing properties, feels cool, refreshing and comfortable when worn.

How to make

Pole is narrow and makes cloth with splashed pattern dyeing on bo (pile up) gareta thread by spinning. Main technique has "kushionatsusen" and "paper pattern textile printing". With shrinkage processing peculiar to Oomi called "embossing" as cloth which weaves, and went up, we finish carefully.

Resisted yarn dyeing is performed on yarn that has been spun very thin. The two main dyeing techniques used are "comb pressing (kushi oshi nassen)" and "paper stencilling (katagami nassen)." The woven fabric is then subjected to a unique Omi shrinkage process called "graining" and given a careful finishing.

Voice from production center

When we paste by hand-washing thinly, and linen shrinkage processing product dries in the shade, texture does not change. As for the yellowing, please give me bleaching powder sarashi (leave) shioshite. Please wash dirts such as the cuffs in water using soap. We blow on fog, and wrinkle of hemp cloth recovers just to stretch out.