Kijoka No BashofuKijoka Banana Fiber Cloth
It is thought that abaca cloth has been already made in the about thirteenth century, but it becomes in the early modern times to have spread out among people and is after.
We planted tree of Basho in garden and field of house, and housewife and daughters wove private cloth. When the 19th century began, silk and cotton came to be sold, but, as for the abaca cloth, were got close to people as ever. Kijoka No Bashofu inheriting this tradition catches general designation of important intangible cultural asset of country designation in 1974.
It seems that banana fiber cloth was already being made around the 13th century but it was much later that it became popular. In the old days banana trees were planted in gardens and fields, and the womenfolk of a family wove it into fabric for home use. Silk and cotton became much more readily available during the 19th century but people still enjoyed wearing banana fiber cloth. Kijoka no Bashofu, which carries on these traditions, was designated as a cultural property by the Prefecture in 1972 and two years later in 1974 it was made an important intangible cultural property by the nation.
Woven from fibers taken from the banana tree, banana fiber cloth is highly representative of the weaving of Okinawa. It was very popular for making a piece of summer-weight formal dress called kamishimo in the Edo period (1600-1868) and being light and comfortable to wear, it is still a great favorite with many people today for kimono in the height of summer. But kimono are not its only use. Some is made into obi, while other pieces make fine cushion covers. Ties, bags and table centers are also made of this engaging cloth, which also makes fine split curtains or noren.
|Industrial art object name
||Kijoka No Bashofu
|Classification of industrial art object
||Kimono place, obi, cushion, tie, bag, noren, table center
|Main production area
||Okinawa / Kunigami-gun Oge taste village
|The designation date
||June 9, 1988
■local production associations
■Associated exhibit space, facility
Abaca cloth to finish weaving using fiber removed from thread Basho is representative Woven textiles of Okinawa. We attracted the Edo era as old ceremonial dress (catch as for doing) in the summer. It is light and smooth feel is unique and is used habitually as kimono of the midsummer widely now.
Bashofu is a typical clothings of Okinawa made from fibers stripped from Itobasho (musa liukiuensis). It was popular as summer clothings during Edo period. It is still popular as summertime kimono as they are light and smooth touched.
How to make
We divide stem of thread Basho which we brought up for three years into four kinds and cook with ash (mokuhai) and we stroke with bamboo scissors and take impurities and do to fiber. We tear fiber of less than 1m finely and we do and tie to plane (hata) end one by one. We perform twist of riokake, cloth with splashed pattern end and dye in natural dye. After being handwoven, we refine in ash again and wash after dipping into rice vinegar and finish hand nobashide. Abaca cloth begins with cultivation of raw wood in field and becomes cloth after long process.
Stems of three year old Itobasho are split into four parts, boiled and removed any impurities before fibers are taken out. The fibers are tied with a weaver’s knot to make them longer as each fiber is less than 1 meter long. The threads are twisted and ikat dyed with natural dyes. After it is hand woven, they are refined by wood ash, washed by rice vinegar and finished by stretching using hand. It takes a long time from the cultivation of Itobasho to completion of fabrics.
Voice from production center
"Abaca cloth story" of Muneyoshi Yanagi has the following one paragraph. "Such beautiful cloth is rare now. Only this cloth is always genuine. We wish that Kijoka No Bashofu wants to continue being genuine. We would appreciate your preparing upper gekurikoshiotappuritotori in in what shrink when we wash longer.