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TRADITIONAL CRAFTS

Chibana HanaoriChibana Hanaori

Skills and techniques already established in the late 19th century, and utchaki (jacket), tisaji (handkerchief) for sacred rites, do gin (life jacket), kimono were continued weaving with kind of fabric with a mosaic waving pattern thing which Chibana Hanaori woven flourishingly for a long time in former Misatomura (Chibana, Noborikawa of current Okinawa-shi, area of Hitoshi Ikehara) passed, and made full use of technique of floating Kaori after the Meiji era. They received crushing blow in World War II, but clothes of Chibana Hanaori are worn by traditional event (usudeku) to pray for staple grains abundant harvest and perfect state of health now.

Since ancient times, Chibana Hanaori has been woven in the former Misato-son (currently the Chibana, Noborikawa, and Ikehara regions of Okinawa City).
It is one type of figured textile made using the tateuki hanaori method of embossing designs vertically, and this technique was already established during the later half of the 19th century. It has been used in festival garments such as the ucchaki vest, tisaji cloth, dujin undershirt, kimono, and more, from the Meiji period to the present day. Okinawa suffered devastating damage during World War 2, but Chibana Hanaori clothing continues to be used today in a traditional ceremony called the Usudeku in prayers for an abundant harvest and sound health.

  • Notification

    skills and techniques

    Assume fabric with a mosaic waving pattern thing woven by primary technique or technique.

    (1) Assume yarn-dyed plain weave.

    (2) Implantation of weft use "hand throw shuttle".

    (3) Express crest using "flower heddle" or "embroidered pattern shuttle".

    (4) Crest using "flower heddle" hangs heddle frame to lifting hook by hand, and express.

    When use 2 cloth with splashed pattern threads, staining of cloth with splashed pattern thread "binds hand"; niyorukoto.

    Raw materials

    Assume thread to use silk thread, cotton yarn, hemp thread.

  • ・Work scenery

    Work scenery

  • ・Close-up

    Close-up

Summary

Industrial art object name Chibana Hanaori
Phonetic symbol We break flower which is Chiba
Classification of industrial art object Woven textiles
Main product Kimono place, obi, standard length of cloth for a haori, accessory
Main production area Okinawa / Okinawa-shi
The designation date July 25, 2012

Contact information

■local production associations

Chibana Hanaori business cooperative association
〒904-2143
5-6-7, Chibana, Okinawa-shi, Okinawa
TEL: 098-921-1187
FAX: 098-989-1220

http://www.chibana-hanaori.com/

■Associated exhibit space, facility

Characteristic

When we gave design, the feature is that the warp of the back of cloth loosens.

The characteristic of this fabric is the patterns made by warp threads floating on the surface.

How to make

There are two kinds for technique, and there are heddle flower technique using flower heddle and hand flower technique to catch crest thread by hand without using flower heddle. ①Heddle flower (sokobana) technique is Woven textiles of double weaving that filament (crest thread) floats in warp direction and pattern soup stock of crest lifts flower heddle frame according to design by hand sequentially and weaves in spite of being credit to hook. With expression of cloth surface, pattern design of cloth list floats in warp direction, and crest thread which is not organized plays, and the cloth other side runs as thread for a long time in warp direction. ②We embroider hand flower (tibana) technique to catch the warp of pattern part by hand and are called texture. Pattern pattern of cloth list floats in warp direction or weft direction, and, in the cloth back, play thread which is not organized may not greatly run unlike sokobana.

There are two methods, the sokobana method which uses a flower heddle, and the tibana method which does not use a flower heddle, and the designs are produced by picking up the threads by hand.
1) The sokobana method uses a heddle to lift up the threads in order along with a pattern in order to create the motif where the weft threads float on the surface of a double-weight cloth. On the surface of the fabric, the warp threads used for the design float to the surface, and the unused warp threads can be seen in long strands on the back side of the fabric.
2) With the tibana method, the warp threads used to form the patterns are picked up by hand, and this style is also called embroidery weaving. The patterns on the surface can follow the warp or the weft, and the back side of the fabric is different than the sokobana style as there are no long threads that haven’t been used in the patterns.