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TRADITIONAL CRAFTS

Nagoya Yuzen

Owari culture was gorgeous in area that we did in the first half around current Nagoya-shi of the 18th century, and various craftsmen came and went from Kyoto. It is said that we were informed technique of yuzen at the time.
To date terminal Dyed Textiles is stored in the Edo era. In addition, for dyeing-related article, record of sale of Ise Katagami is left.

During the first half of the 18th century, Tokugawa Muneharu was the seventh in the line of leaders of the Owari clan controlling an area centered on present-day Nagoya. It was a time when the culture of the clan was flourishing and craftsmen of many types visited the area from Kyoto and elsewhere. It was then that the techniques of yuzen dyeing were introduced to the area.

Some 19th century items have been preserved and there are also records of the sale of stencil paper called Ise Katagami. Given the steady and restrained character of the local people, the number of colors used is kept to a minimum, or one color is graded to produce patterns in keeping with the local taste for the sober. The ground black of the cloth produced for one of the very formal kimonos called a tome-sode, is achieved by the torobiki kurozome technique peculiar to Nagoya, producing a really fine rich black.

  • Notification

    skills and techniques

    1
    When meet freehand drawing Yuzen, thing by the next technique or technique.

     
    (1)
    Design be based on printed silk pattern.

     
    (2)
    Draw sketch using blue-and-white chinas.

     
    (3)
    When do resist style, thing by "line masking" or "lie down masking."

     
    (4)
    Use writing brush or brush "we shade off foot charge account" and to describe, and to dye "we place color".

    2
    When meet model Yuzen, thing by the next technique or technique.

     
    (1)
    Say that paper pattern engraved printed silk pattern on ground paper which we set up making paper by hand Washi Paper using persimmon juice and put together or ground paper which is equal to this.

     
    (2)
    Perform pattern arrangement of "pattern charge account" by manual labor.

    Raw materials

    Assume dough silk fabrics.

     

  • Work scenery

    Yuzen process is divided into two kinds of freehand drawing yuzen and model yuzen by technique, and both the history and work processes are different. Here, we easily introduce work process about freehand drawing yuzen in succession to Yuzen process original technique begun at the end of 17th century by Ougi illustrator, Yuzen Miyazaki of Kyoto. Freehand drawing Yuzen of Nagoya is informed by Master Yuzen of Kyoto and Edo in the times (1730 through 1739) of the Owari Tokugawas seventh charges feudal lord sect spring and is informed by climate of rusticity economy of Owari afterwards when style of "monochrome light and shade-like" established in total.

    Process 1: Sketch

    We create design according to design which we thought about with blue-and-white china liquid to silk white dough which we fitted beforehand. There is property to decline when we wash blue-and-white china with water with juice of flower of spiderwort. The feature of picture design of Nagoya Yuzen is that there are many classic things such as flowers and birds poetic genius.

    Process 2: Line masking (we shoot dead and appear and get up)

    We squeeze paste which we put in the pipe from face of dough along line of sketch. This paste puts salt in the powder of sticky rice and cooks and added zinc dust, and is peculiar to Nagoya Yuzen. The reason why it puts paste is that it prevents the next color fellow from mixing at the time of color grafting, but it is important to put paste according to the sketch as dough is put in Nobuko (we use for tentering of dough with thing which we attached needle to earlier of sincere thin strip of bamboo), and there is part which design transforms.

    Process 3: We place color (be and shine)

    It is the most important process to control the completion. We soak writing brush and brush with dye liquid and place inside of line paste from light color sequentially. We perform that line becomes big and prevents that dye is blurred because moisture of dye liquid which we painted with then softens paste while shading weak fire such as charcoal fire or electric range with dough, and drying. There are several kinds including shading off use for coloring of the details for general coloring and uses writing brush and brush to use properly in use in total to place color. We use brush which we cut flat brush called "mate to brush" diagonally to shade off and prepared of the monochrome light and shade characterizing Nagoya Yuzen. If color grafting is over, it is sultry with steam and stops color and does.

    Process 4: fusenorioki (lie down and appear and get up)

    We bury all the designs with paste so that dye of ground dyeing does not soak into part which we place color and did. We use thing which paste mixes salt with powder of sticky rice and cooked. We sprinkle sawdust after paste lying down was completed and prevent adhesion of paste to other dough at the same time to hasten drying of paste.

    Process 5: Brush dyeing (hikizome)

    We do place of dough dyeing. We put dough among pillars and we put Nobuko every approximately 30 centimeters and hang to suitable height. We paint with dye liquid by wide brush, but need considerable mastery of skills to dye evenly. We use unique technique called "fatty brush dyeing" to dye black colours of the ground such as formal kimonos with a decorated skirt in Nagoya Yuzen. We mix paste of sticky rice with thing which dissolved black dye with boiling water, and this performs brush dyeing by brush, and can draw shiny black.

    Process 6: We finish with coloring

    After having washed off extra dye and paste which dough had well, we do steaming and fix form and supplement color, handle on design part. At this stage, it is handle of the details that it was not possible for by process of color grafting including core of flower and face of person that we describe, and can enter. We finish using other gold streaks, silver lines and gold leaf and we match design and sew completed dough and are completion.

     

     

  • Close-up

    Charm of chaste refinement of "monochrome light and shade key"

    We are characterized by hue that Nagoya Yuzen is quieter than gorgeous Kaga Yuzen to use luxurious Kyo Yuzen using gold and silver and five colors color including enjiya yellow, green for, and is modest. What is charm of chaste refinement called "monochrome light and shade key?" We heard story from Mitsuhisa Horibe who played an active part as dyeing writer.

     

    Study, the ascetic practices era of study

    When we had begun to help with Yuzen process of business at 16 years old, freehand drawing was very busy, and there were 5-6 pupils in place of father of Horibe. "It was serious while we liked all picture, and there were many people who came because we were good because we entered because it was business." We look back, and it is said that we did not think that we can do it myself to here now. We were given only one color of paint called whitewash (feces) while it is beginning, but there is experience even if whitewash takes one how to work out. We fall when too dark. Saying "thickened to the limit, but became so as to be defeated by nobody."; Horibe. We learned such skill to see for phantasmagoria densely when we made hue of at twilight time a little. We were up every morning after 5:00 and played catch on the run together in those days in riverbed to the Shonai River nearby. We come home and take bath and we eat and work. We eat dinner and work again at night. It is said that we did it until late-night about 0:00. We spent work that remained on the moon on holiday on 2nd on study after the putting in order. Exercise of sketch and study of pattern structure. We had a lot of that we studied.

    Horibe who makes coloring finish on dough

    We were praised for the first time by father

    "Father was skilled and was severe. Therefore we were glad when we were praised by father." Father died approximately three years ago, but it is said that there is little praised memory. It was that Horibe became nearly 40 years old that such father praised for the first time. When we saw work of Horibe was displayed in department store where we went to by chance. It was blue and yellow, pattern of face of fan using pink. Horibe says that it was a word of "a is good". We seemed to go to department store for study well.

    We describe, and center of a flower is put carefully

    You may wear, and there must be

    "After all we were glad when we had visitor more tell." "to want to wear right now" It is time when we drew pattern of princess of ceremonial dress (we get person) on black ground to long-sleeved kimono of coming-of-age ceremony. It was masterpiece which we drew cherry tree, wisteria, maple and seasonal flower and put. It is said that visitor to see completed kimono said if splendid. Horibe says, "you may wear because it is kimono, and there must be.". It is different from red that 20-year-old person wears with red that 40-year-old person wears even if we say, "paint with red". Therefore it is actually difficult in half a year. We have you say by one year, and it is said that handle which we thought about in total must buy for person wearing from dough prospering most. By the way, price? We heard this. It seems to be 600,000-700,000. It is not price that is such high if we think that we buy top-brand suit.

    "jukosen" of the patent acquisition

    It is work of "jukosen" which it dyed using leaves such as bamboo grass and hinoki, fern that Horibe makes mainly in now. We repeated studies with father afterwards, and what we dyed using net of baseball brought about new technique first in old days when we played baseball in the morning. jukosen which patent of technique acquired wins many prizes by dyeing exhibition. Horibe says that it is very pleasant to make work of jukosen. After all there are many works of astringent juice meno hue in jukosen.

    Work of "jukosen." We are dyed using leaves such as fern or hinoki

    It is charm of Nagoya Yuzen that we wear, and become more attractive

    Chaste refinement of monochrome light and shade key has characteristic of Nagoya Yuzen. We hold down the number of the colors and use calm color without using original color. Horibe says that we make every color from 6-7 colors. "We think so that color, there with depth wearing well are good now." Only color that is beautiful to give good color is not good, and coloration easy for eyes seems to be important. According to the word that you may wear because it is kimono, and there must be, it is charm of Nagoya Yuzen that we wear, and become more attractive.

    • It is characteristic of Nagoya Yuzen that the number of the colors to use for one work is held down as much as possible

    • Nobunaga Oda.
      In 1534 (Tenbun 3), we are born in Owari Nagono. D.1582 (Tensho 10)

    • Hideyoshi Toyotomi.
      In 1536 (Tenbun 5), we are born in Owari Nakamura. D.1598 (Keicho 3)

    • Ieyasu Tokugawa.
      In 1542 (Tenbun 11), we are born in Mikawa Okazaki. D.1616 (Genna 2)

    Craftsman profile

    Mitsuhisa Horibe (horibemichihisa)

    It was born in 1947 (Showa 22). We begin Yuzen process of business at 16 years old. We created original styles while succeeding to technique of Nagoya Yuzen and won many prizes.

    Mitsuhisa Horibe. At at home workshop on the second floor, classroom of freehand drawing yuzen is open, too

    Gleanings

    Is Nagoya showy? Or is it quiet?

    Nagoya seems to be often thought to be showy from other local people. Wedding ceremony is showy, and trousseau is image to be showy. However, "is slightly quiet hue of Nagoya Yuzen ... which we established in total in climate of simple economy of this land? ? ?" Person who seemed to be question will come. It is nature of the locality that, in fact, Nagoya finishes usually thinking for (big event including marriage) simply when it is special, and do loudly. In comparison with Osaka that was Kyoto that was court noble society, town of merchant; and Nagoya is town of samurai family. The Owari Tokugawas is town which we ruled until the Meiji Restoration since Ieyasu Tokugawa makes Nagoya-jo Castle in 1612 and made town of Nagoya. Owari, Mikawa well-known for having produced Nobunaga Oda, Hideyoshi Toyotomi, three geniuses of Ieyasu Tokugawa is that simple and sturdy ga is nature of the locality that has been respected.

     

Summary

Industrial art object name Nagoya Yuzen
Phonetic symbol nagoyayuuzen
Classification of industrial art object Dyed Textiles
Main product Kimono place
Main production area Aichi / Nagoya-shi, Kasugai-shi, Shikatsucho, Nishikasugai-gun
The designation date April 27, 1983

Contact information

■local production associations

Association of Nagoya Yuzen black crested kimono cooperative association society
〒451-0074
1-28, Mandaicho, Nishi-ku, Nagoya-shi, Aichi
TEL: 052-531-9875
FAX: 052-531-9875

http://www.pref.aichi.jp/sangyoshinko/densan/204.html

■Associated exhibit space, facility

Characteristic

In the Nagoya district, color of design describes pattern in the-colored light and shade of one with the number of the colors near at hand for reliable nature of the locality and quiet character; is bitter. As for the black colour of the ground of formal kimono with a decorated skirt, technique of "fatty hikikokusen" (kurosome) peculiar to Nagoya was devised, and black complexion is superior.

The Nagoya region is known for its pragmatic local color and subdued temperaments, and in following, Nagoya yuzen is elegant and restrained, limiting color variation in the pattern, instead using shades of a single color to create a design. Formal black kimono are made using a method unique to Nagoya called "torobiki-kurozome", which results in a superior lustrous black color.

How to make

We produce freehand drawing yuzen with "one article of handicraft" that we do masking, shokuso from design, sketch, and one author works until finish consistently. As for the printing, suri (do) ri sen using brush is common other than direct-printing starch yuzen using Ise Katagami.

Hand-painted yuzen begins with a design and rough sketch, followed by application of paste, dyeing, and finishing, all done by a single person. Each item is completely handmade. Resist dyeing uses Ise katagami stencils to apply paste to the yuzen. Additionally, the surizome technique which uses a brush is also common.

Voice from production center

After having worn, we make dry in the shade in clothes rack (obtain for thing) for a while and treat sweat or dirt before putting away, and we put in chest and the clothes box, and let's put away in dry place.